Biorb Forum for all Biorb and Biube tropical and cold water fish aquarium owners.

This new unofficial Biorb Forum is a friendly growing community of experienced and not so experienced biorb/biube fish keeping hobbyists, who are always willing to offer help and advice from aquarium set-up, fish health issues, tank cycling, fish foods to aquarium plants and planting.

If you have (or are thinking about owning) a biorb or biube why not join our community?

Join the Biorb Forum here: www.biorbforum.co.uk

Orb-it is a non-commercial Forum run by members for the benefit of members and is not affiliated with Reef One Limited owners of the biOrb brand names.
The views, opinions, advice and comments expressed by Forum members do not purport to represent Reef One Limited in any way whatsoever.
The trade marks biOrb and the biOrb logo belong to Reef One Limited. All trademarks belong to their respective owners.
The biOrb itself is protected through Registered Design rights and pending patents.

© Frequently Asked Questions - from the official Biorb website

1. How long should I leave it before adding my first fish?

You should leave the biOrb running for at least 24hrs before adding your first fish as this allows the water to stabilize. If you are using tap water always use the de-chlorinator provided.

2. How much should I feed my fish?

Do not over feed your fish. This is the leading cause of goldfish death. A small gold fish will require as few as 3-4 flakes per day (always use large dry flakes). DO NOT USE LARGE PELLET FOODS THESE WILL QUICKLY CLOUD THE AQUARIUM AND MAKE IT SMELL.

3. Can I add more than one fish in the first month?

You should not add another fish for at least 28 days unless you are closely monitoring the ammonia level (high ammonia build up can kill fish). Ammonia test kits only cost a few pounds and are a worthwhile buy. Once matured the bacteria will convert the ammonia to less harmful substances. You can dilute the ammonia with 1/3 water changes if it does get high, if you are unsure of what level it is at or if you have added more than one fish. Try to use one small goldfish of a hardy variety to mature the tank. Avoid fancy types such as 'black moores' as these tend to be hard to keep unless the aquarium is very mature. The only other exception is if you use small minnow type fish when a few can be added to mature the aquarium.

4. Why has my biOrb gone cloudy/smelly?

Immediate cloudiness can be a result of insufficient cleaning of the ceramic media; if so it will eventually settle out. Wiping the inside of the bowl with your fingertips will also help. Cloudiness and smelliness, especially over a short period of time, indicates overfeeding or the use of the wrong type of food. For more information view the FAQ marked ‘how much should I feed my fish’.

Another cause of cloudiness without smell is real plants supplied in small pots containing either wool or compost. The best way to stop this problem is to use weighted plants that have lead wrapped around the roots.

5. Why has the water in my biOrb got a brown tint?

The brown tint that builds up in aquarium water over time is a concentration of dyes from fish food and organic waste from fish. How quickly this tint builds up is directly related to what you put in the biOrb. If it happens quickly after setting up the biOrb, consult the ‘how much should I feed my fish’ FAQ above.

If after a month or so you notice a tint, do a water change and change the filter cartridge. If you notice that the water goes brown quickly after maintenance ensure that when you remove the water you use a siphon. Sucking out the dirt after removing the filter cartridge prevents any solid waste being left in the biOrb, which quickly discolours water. Agitating the stones before siphoning will also help to loosen any trapped dirt.

6. Why is there algae growth on my biOrb

A small amount of algae growth is a sign of a healthy aquarium and not something to worry about. We say this because harmful chemicals such as ammonia are metabolised into a less harmful substance such as nitrate, which actually feed algae. Where there is excessive algae growth, a number of parameters could be accelerating it. These are outside parameters such as light and heat and inside parameters such as high nitrate/phosphate levels.

High nitrates and phosphates are a direct result of either overfeeding or a lack of maintenance. Putting poor quality water into the biOrb can also be a contributing factor. If you are using tap or pond water, test it for nitrates/ phosphates first. Changing poor quality water for equally poor water won’t help. All rotting matter including uneaten food, fish waste and dead plants can also produce nitrates. For this reason it is important to carry out regular filter changes and partial water changes. It is not necessary to empty the biOrb and start again, just increase the maintenance for a while and follow these tips:

1. Make sure the biOrb is away from any sources of heat.
2. Make sure it is in a dark area (even non-direct sunlight can be strong enough to accelerate algae growth). 3. Reduce feeding/ stocking levels.
4. Clean any algae away with a cleaning cloth.
5. Change/clean the filter more regularly. Leave a maximum of one month between changes until problem subsides.
6. Use a siphon pump/tube to remove any solid waste. Sucking out dirt after removing the filter cartridge prevents any solid waste being left in the biOrb that could cause nitrates. Agitating the stones before siphoning will also help to loosen any trapped dirt. Siphon pump/tube are available from Reef One.
7. When carrying out water changes, take out more than 1/3rd of the water to dilute the nitrates but do not exceed 2/3rds. Try to ensure the new water is of a similar temperature to minimise stress. Use chemicals provided with service kits when doing water changes.
8. Some chemicals are available to reduce nitrates and phosphates and may help. However they are no substitute for taking more care with feeding and regular maintenance.

7. My filter appears to be filling with air?

When this happens it is a sign that the air stone has become blocked and caused a small air leak. Removing the air stone will instantly alleviate the problem and start the filter working again. The filter will however be slightly noisy so we recommend putting a new one in as soon as possible. To change the air stone remove the filter cartridge as if you were doing a filter change. You should now be able to see a small white cylinder about 20mm high where the bubbles come out; gently pull up on it to remove the air stone and replace with a new one. Be careful not to push down to hard on the stone as it may become damaged.

8. Can I use a longer airline?

You can use an airline of between three and five metres in length depending on the air pump you have. Anything longer will require a larger air pump. Always attach the new airline to the pump-end of the existing airline, not the biOrb-end. Trim the end of the tube you detach from the pump and use either a straight airline connector or better still a one-way valve to join the two airlines.

9. Why am I getting fewer bubbles?

If you’ve noticed that the rate of bubbles has decreased compared to when you first got your biOrb you need to change the air stone. Air stones become blocked over time by calcification, especially in hard water areas. Changing them regularly will help to prolong the life of the air pump and improve filter performance. To change the air stone remove the filter cartridge as if you were doing a filter change. You should now be able to see a small white cylinder about 20mm high where the bubbles come out; gently pull up on it to remove the air stone and replace with a new one. Be careful not to push down to hard on the stone as it may become damaged.

10. Why do I have to change the filter so often?

Changing the filter is important as it becomes blocked over time and reduces in efficiency. As a result the waste it has collected to date starts to break down and rot, releasing toxins. Regularly changing the filter removes this waste. It is also easier and more effective to siphon water and dirt out whilst the filter is also out. Siphoning dirt from the lowest point ensures the maximum amount of waste is removed. Cartridges can be cleaned under a tap as they provide mechanical filtration only. This however does not recharge the chemicals in the cartridge.

11. Why do I have to keep the biOrb out of sunlight?

There are three main reasons why the biOrb should be kept out of direct or strong sunlight.

1. Direct or strong daylight will cause excessive algae growth.
2. Direct or strong daylight will cause excessive temperature fluctuations in the aquarium.
3. All round fish bowls, both glass and acrylic have a magnifying effect. Whilst this adds to the appeal of them, one down side is that if placed in direct sunlight they produce a focal point of light that can scorch/burn materials and possibly cause fire.

12. Do I have to keep the ceramic media provided?

We recommend that if you wish to add other types of materials, such as coloured gravel, you keep the ceramic media provided below it and separate the two materials with a gravel tidy mesh. The ceramic media provides important biological filtration so removing it may be detrimental to the fish. If you add finer material like gravel, you may find it becomes blocked, preventing the filter from working effectively. If this does happen switch to a coarser gravel and/or siphon clean the gravel more regularly.

13. How do I deal with disease?

Disease should be dealt with as soon as it is spotted. Early diagnosis and medication is the best way to prevent disease from spreading and causing fish to die.

Disease is common in the modern aquarium so care should be taken when buying fish. Never buy fish showing signs of disease and never buy fish from tanks were other fish are showing signs of disease. Common diseases are ‘white spot’ and ‘fin rot’ and are diagnosed as their names suggest by rotting fins or small white spots. These are easily treated with products such as ‘Protozone’ or equivalent and rarely prove fatal if dealt with quickly. Other diseases do exist and if you are unsure of what they are write down the signs and symptoms and visit a Reef One stockist for advice on appropriate medications. If fish appear to be lethargic or not feeding, dramatically reduce feeding until their appetite improves. Otherwise you will be polluting the water and compounding the problem.

Often disease or illness is accelerated by poor water quality so increase maintenance straight away with water changes, cartridge changes and siphoning of solid waste before starting medication. This will reduce the chances of disease lingering in the aquarium and improve the success of the medication. You are often advised to carry out no maintenance while performing a course of medication so it is important to do it before and after any treatments. Please also note that it is often better not to separate ill fish from the others, as this will stress them.

The disease can remain in the aquarium even after fish have been treated so you must treat the aquarium as well. Boiling the ceramic media will not stop the disease; it will kill the beneficial bacteria. The best way to stop the disease is to use medications on the entire tank.

Always follow instructions supplied with aquarium medicines.

14. What should I do if a fish dies?

There are two main causes of fish death in new aquariums: overfeeding and over- stocking. A new aquarium has no bacteria to cope with the biological load produced by fish and food so the ammonia level rises very quickly and toxic levels build up. If you think you have overfed or overstocked your aquarium you can lower the level of the toxins by diluting the water with fresh water and carrying out maintenance to remove solid waste. In a mature aquarium bacteria will consume most of the toxins but it takes around 28 days (with fish in the aquarium) to start the maturing process. This is why we recommend only one fish for the first month. Your fish is most vulnerable during this period as the water can look very clear but still be very toxic.

Always remove dead fish immediately. Fish can die naturally but more often than not something has caused it to die. Examine the fish for outward signs of disease and have a sample of the water tested for ammonia, nitrate and pH, as something may be about to affect your other fish. It is usually pragmatic to ask yourself if everything is all right in the aquarium; am I overfeeding? has waste been allowed to build up in the aquarium or am I doing enough maintenance?

15. How should I deal with swim bladder problems?

The best way to deal with swim bladder problems is to leave the fish alone. Do not remove it from the tank and don’t try to right the fish, as this will stress it unnecessarily. Get the correct swim bladder medications to add to the aquarium and then follow the instructions on the medications.

16. What types of fish can I put in the biOrb?

Whilst all coldwater fish are suitable for the biOrb, size should be a consideration. We recommend that the smaller the fish the better, and that you use some of the more hardy varieties such as standard goldfish, rather than fancy types, especially when maturing the aquarium. The fancier the goldfish (more deformed or mutated from the standard form goldfish) the harder they become to keep as they find it difficult to swim and eat. There are also some small fish such as white cloud minnows that do very well in a cold-water biOrb set-up. Always remember more fish equal more maintenance.

17. Can I add a heater to my biOrb and ‘make it’ tropical?

All biOrb’s can be set up as a tropical aquarium simply by adding a standard aquarium heater. A 50-watt heater should provide plenty of heat.

18. What type of plants should be put in the biOrb?

There are two options for planting: plastic or real. They both have their own merits. Plastic plants don’t die but they also often look unnatural. Also they don’t have any beneficial effects such as absorbing nutrients that would otherwise feed algae. Healthy live plants are the best but often people struggle to look after them and find plastic easier. If you want to opt for live plants ensure they are healthy when you buy them and that the roots are protected with foam and lead weights. Avoid buying fragile plants with delicate or fancy leaves, as boisterous goldfish will probably damage them. Also avoid plants that goldfish eat, as these will increase the biological load on the filter. A light will help to keep the plants healthy but avoid direct sun light. Remove any algae build up on plant leaves by gently rubbing with the biOrb cleaning cloth.

19. What chemicals should I use?

Try to use as few chemicals as possible. Excessive additives and chemicals will not help the condition of your biOrb. Choose a set of chemicals to do a job and stick with them; do not mix additives from different companies to do the same job as they may react adversely together. Think before using chemicals and additives: do they do the same job? Can they be used together? You only need to use a de-chlorinator to remove chlorine if you are using tap water etc.

There are two sachets of chemicals supplied with the biOrb; one is a de-chlorinator called ‘stress coat’ and one is a biological filtration kick-start chemical called ‘stress zyme’. To carry out regular maintenance these two chemicals are all you should need. Use the ‘stress coat’ de-chlorinator when adding fresh water from the tap to the aquarium and the ‘stress zyme’ to enhance the biological filtration in the aquarium (in a mature aquarium adding a full sachet of ‘stress zyme’ is not always necessary).

20. How should I transfer fish from my existing aquarium?

When transferring fish from an existing aquarium or bowl observe the normal stocking instructions. Otherwise high ammonia levels will occur due to new tank syndrome that could possibly harm or kill the fish. If you have not followed the instructions and over-stocked too quickly, use water changes to dilute the toxins. Perform these every two to three days unless you are able to check ammonia/nitrite levels with a test kit.

If you have more than one fish in your existing aquarium/bowl it is better to transfer them at a rate of one per month.